The knobs had gone so stiff they wanted two hands. He pulled every one, cleaned the valve stems and regreased them with the proper high temperature compound. They turn under a finger again and nothing was left greasy.
Owner feedback
What owners said afterwards
Rated 4.6 out of 5 across 46 customer reviews. All 46 are printed below, in full, oldest complaint and all.
How to read these
Each entry is one visit: what the appliance was doing, what was measured, what was changed, and how the call ended. They are printed first name and last initial, the way they were given to us, and the ones that are less than glowing are printed too.
Nothing below quotes a figure. What a visit costs belongs on the pricing page, where it can be held against the invoice, and what happens afterwards belongs on the warranty page. If a complaint below sounds like the one in your kitchen, the page for that appliance sets out how it gets diagnosed.
The figure
- Average
- 4.6 out of 5, the mean of the 46 reviews on this page.
- 5 stars
- 31
- 4 stars
- 12
- 3 stars
- 3
- Span
- September 2025 to July 2026
- Where from
- Thermador built-ins in Ponte Vedra Beach and the rest of St. Johns County — columns and wine storage, ranges and cooktops, wall and steam ovens, dishwashers, ventilation and coffee systems.
Every review we publish
The descale warning would not clear even after we had descaled it twice. He worked out that the routine was being interrupted each time by low water pressure, ran it through properly, and the warning has stayed away.
The ice maker was turning out hollow, half formed cubes. He measured the fill rate and found the inlet screen nearly blocked with grit off our supply line. He cleared it, fitted a fresh filter, and the cubes came back solid.
The dishwasher left grit on the top rack in every load. He pulled the filter housing, found the upper wash arm partly blocked and one bearing worn through. He cleared the arm, fitted the bearing, and the top rack comes out clean.
The built-in coffee machine kept stopping with a brew unit fault. He took the unit out, stripped it, renewed the worn seals and regreased the drive rather than selling me a complete assembly. Back to proper shots.
The hood roared away but pulled almost nothing off the range. He found the roof cap damper seized shut with salt corrosion, freed and lubricated it, then measured the draw at the grille. The difference is night and day.
The freezer column iced across the back panel every few weeks while the fridge column held fine. He found a defrost heater open circuit, tested the sensor beside it and changed both. Six weeks on there is no frost line at all.
The machine stopped partway through and flashed at us. He read the fault, found the diverter motor jammed with a shard of broken glass and freed it rather than replacing the whole assembly. It runs full cycles again.
The wall oven would not hold a temperature on convection and browned everything down one side. He found the convection fan bearing dry and noisy, put in a new motor and rechecked the airflow with the racks loaded.
The front left burner lit and then dropped out the moment I let go of the knob. He cleaned the thermocouple tip and found a loose spark module terminal behind the panel. Both dealt with in one visit and the flame holds.
The coffee was coming out lukewarm and thin. He descaled the boiler properly, found the flow meter reading badly and changed it. Temperature and crema are both back where they were when the machine was new to us.
The simmer setting was not simmering, just a quieter roar. He stripped and cleaned the burner heads, cleared the simmer ports on two of them and rebalanced the air shutters. It holds a proper low flame under a sauce now.
The steam oven stopped making steam and simply heated. He descaled the generator, renewed a scaled up level sensor and showed me the water we had been feeding it. Steam is back and the descale reminder behaves again.
Preheat took an age and the broil element never glowed evenly across it. He tested both elements, found the bake element open at one end and put a new one in. Preheat is back to what we remember from the beginning.
Our refrigerator column drifted up into the mid forties overnight. The evaporator fan had a cracked blade hub and was barely turning. The part came in on a second trip, which stretched things out, but the temperature has been level since.
The downdraft would rise but then refuse to go back down. He cleaned the track, found a stripped lift gear and replaced it. It has gone up and come down every day since without hesitating once.
Milk frothing had gone weak and unpredictable. He dismantled the milk path, cleared a hardened build up in the venturi and put in a new tube set. He also walked me through the rinse routine we had been quietly skipping.
One burner clicked away constantly even with everything switched off. He replaced a cracked igniter cap that had been letting damp across the electrode. The clicking stopped on the spot and he cleaned the other heads while he was in there.
Standing water sat in the sump after every cycle. He cleared a solid plug out of the drain hose and shortened the loop where it had sagged behind the cabinet. It drains properly, but the side panel got scuffed on the way out.
The combination programme kept cutting out partway through a bake. He traced it to a thermal cutout tripping early because the vent path behind the cabinet was packed with lint. Cleared out, and it has run every programme since.
Wine column ran a couple of degrees warm on the upper zone and the bottles nearest the glass were suffering for it. He checked the door gasket, found a stretch that had taken a set and no longer sealed, and fitted a new length.
Water was collecting in the drip tray far faster than any amount of coffee explained. He found a cracked outlet spout and a leaking seal behind the brew group, replaced both, and checked the tray sensor while it was open.
The door dropped open instead of easing down. He renewed the broken spring cable on both sides and set the tension so it now holds wherever you leave it. A small job, done neatly, and the cabinetry was not touched.
The induction top kept faulting under the largest pan. He metered the coil, found a cooked connector on the harness rather than the coil itself, and renewed the harness. A far smaller job than the one I had braced for.
Only the low speed worked and the lights flickered along with it. He renewed the speed control module and a heat damaged wire sitting behind it. Every speed works and the lights hold steady no matter what the blower is doing.
The double oven locked itself in the middle of a roast and would not let go. He talked me through releasing it, then renewed the latch motor that had failed halfway. He also showed me what to check before ringing next time.
The self clean cycle tripped the breaker every single time. He found the door lock circuit shorting once it got hot, replaced the assembly and then ran a full clean cycle with me standing there to prove it. No trips since.
The hood tripped its own breaker whenever the blower reached top speed. He measured the motor draw, found it well over where it should sit with a seizing bearing, and fitted a new blower motor. Not one trip since.
Water was pooling under the crisper drawers. Instead of swapping parts he pulled the drain trough, cleared a plug of ice out of the outlet and warmed the tube through. Nothing has pooled since and nothing was replaced needlessly.
The water tank kept reporting empty when it was full to the line. He found the tank contacts corroded and the float sticking, cleaned both and replaced the seal that had been letting moisture past. It reads correctly now.
The oven side of the range ran hot enough to scorch a tray of biscuits. He calibrated it against a probe and set an offset, then came back a week later when it drifted again and changed the temperature sensor. Right in the end.
Everything came out cloudy no matter what we changed in the rinse aid. He tested the water hardness, checked the heater circuit and found it was not heating at all. A new heating element went in and the glasses are clear.
The column alarm chimed at odd hours with the door plainly shut. He showed me the hinge had dropped just far enough to leave the switch out of range, reset the door height, and the chiming stopped that afternoon.
Condensation poured out the front every time we opened the door. He checked the cooling fan, found it turning at half speed, put a new one in, and the door now opens without a cloud coming at your face.
The upper oven display went dark while the lower one carried on working. Rather than sell me a control board he checked the ribbon connection first, found it corroded from a leak above and cleaned and reseated it. Fine ever since.
The machine ran its cycle but nothing on the lower rack was getting washed. The sump impeller had lost a vane. He fitted a new pump and checked the spray pattern with the racks out before he closed it back up.
The filters rattled at high speed and the noise carried through the house. He rebalanced the blower wheel and replaced two clips that had lost their grip. Quieter than it was, not silent, which he was straight about beforehand.
A gas smell near the range worried us enough that we shut the valve off. He leak tested every joint, found a weeping manifold fitting, resealed it and retested with the meter where I could watch. Nothing was brushed aside.
The oven door had steamed up between the panes and I assumed it was permanent. He took the door apart, cleaned both faces and replaced a perished vent seal. It came back clear, though one trim screw was left sitting proud.
The freezer compressor ran without a break and the cabinet floor felt warm underfoot. He cleaned a solid mat of dust off the condenser and rechecked the current draw. It cycles properly now, though I wish the first look had gone that far.
Ours leaked onto the cabinet below during the longer bakes. He replaced the door gasket and adjusted the hinge tension to suit. It has been dry since, though a second visit was needed before the right gasket turned up.
The grinder started making a dreadful noise mid morning. He found a small stone lodged in the burrs, cleaned the chamber out and reset the grind. It works, though he warned that the burrs themselves are getting on.
The oven works now, but getting there took three visits. Two of them were spent chasing a heat complaint that turned out to be the probe socket rather than the sensor. Good work at the end of it, slow arriving at the answer.
The column cools well now, but the first visit read the fault wrong and we lost a week waiting on a board we did not need. The technician who came back found a stuck relay instead and sorted it. Mixed feelings about the whole thing.
The griddle plate never came up to an even heat across its width. He found one element reading well outside its range and swapped it out. It works properly, but the part took long enough that we cooked around it for a while.
A leak underneath had already marked the boards before we spotted it. He found the door seal split at the lower corner, replaced it, then dried and checked the tray beneath. I would have liked more warning on the part wait.